Find a fair resale range for your guitar in about a minute.
Pick the brand, model family, year range, and condition. The checker returns a value range, notes on what helps or hurts resale value, and a printable result you can bring to a shop or show a buyer.
Original case adds $40 to $70. No mods. Light finish wear only.
Describe the guitar
Quick presets
Results are estimates based on common resale patterns. They are not appraisals.
Real-world listing patterns for common models
These examples show how condition, year, and case quality shift the range. Numbers are based on typical resale patterns, not one exact sale.
Model
Year range
Good condition
Very good
Excellent
Notes
Fender Stratocaster
2010 - 2018
$650 - $800
$780 - $980
$950 - $1,200
American-made holds value better than Squier. Original case adds $40 to $70.
Fender Telecaster
2008 - 2016
$600 - $780
$750 - $950
$920 - $1,150
Clean, simple electrics are a plus. Finish checking can drop the top end by 10 to 15 percent.
Gibson Les Paul
2005 - 2015
$1,100 - $1,400
$1,400 - $1,800
$1,800 - $2,200
Weight relief and neck profile matter. Non-original pickups often cut value.
Epiphone Les Paul
2010 - 2020
$280 - $380
$380 - $500
$500 - $650
Strong beginner market. Original box and papers help at the top end.
PRS SE Custom 24
2014 - 2021
$550 - $700
$700 - $880
$880 - $1,050
Clean examples move fast. Faded finishes are less desirable than solid colors.
Martin D-28
2005 - 2018
$1,600 - $2,000
$2,000 - $2,400
$2,400 - $2,900
Neck cracks or bridge repairs hit value hard. Original hardshell case is a big plus.
Taylor 314ce
2012 - 2020
$900 - $1,150
$1,150 - $1,400
$1,400 - $1,700
Electronics in good shape matter most. Scratched tops are common and forgiven more than body dents.
Common mistakes when pricing a used guitar
Most bad deals come from a few repeat errors. Check these before you list or buy.
Overpaying for mods.
New pickups, tuners, or hardware rarely add their full cost. Buyers usually want original parts unless the upgrade is a known brand and cleanly installed.
Underestimating wear.
Light finish swirls are normal. Finish checking, binding cracks, and deep dents are not. Fret wear and electronics issues cost real money to fix.
Ignoring case quality.
A clean original case can add $40 to $100. A broken latch or moldy lining subtracts trust and sometimes money.
Using one listing as proof.
One high asking price does not mean the guitar is worth that. Compare several recent sold listings in similar condition.
Forgetting shipping and fees.
Buyers pay less if shipping is risky. Sellers net less after marketplace fees. A local cash sale often lands higher for both sides.
Not testing electronics.
Crackling pots, dead pickups, and loose jacks are common. Fixing them is cheap compared to the price hit of selling a guitar that does not work.
Two quick scenarios
Selling a 2016 Stratocaster
You have a Fender Stratocaster from 2016 in very good shape. It has light finish wear, original case in good shape, and no mods. The checker gives you a range around $780 to $980. You list it at $920, accept $870, and meet the buyer at a shop so they can play it first.
Buying a used Les Paul
You find a 2009 Gibson Les Paul listed at $1,950. The seller says it is excellent, but photos show fret wear and changed tuners. The checker suggests closer to $1,400 to $1,800 for that condition. You show the seller your result and agree on $1,600 after a setup.
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How to use this checker
Start with the brand and model family. If you are not sure about the exact model, pick the closest family name. Add the year and the original price if you know it. Then choose the condition that matches the guitar in front of you, not the one you hope it is.
Modifiers matter. Original case, all-original parts, and clean electronics usually help the price. Mods, finish cracks, fret wear, and electronics issues usually lower it. The result panel updates as you change these, so you can see what each factor does.
What the range means
The low end assumes some wear, fewer extras, and a quick sale. The high end assumes clean condition, original parts, and patience. The midpoint is a reasonable starting point for negotiation.
Assumptions
This checker focuses on common production guitars from major brands. It assumes standard finishes, normal play wear, and typical regional demand. It does not cover custom shop instruments, rare vintage guitars, artist-owned gear, or prototypes well.
Before you list or buy
Compare your guitar against recent sold listings on reputable marketplaces. Check the neck, frets, electronics, and case. If something is wrong, price it honestly. A fair price sells faster and causes fewer arguments.
When to get a second opinion
If the guitar is old, rare, modified, or damaged, get a second opinion from a shop or an experienced collector. Use this checker to prepare, not to replace human judgment.